Worktop fixing method
a) Slotted brackets
Worktops are fixed down using slotted stretcher brackets only, (with slots uppermost). The cross grain slots in the brackets, together with roundhead screws, will accomodate the natural movement of the timber whilst holding the worktop down. Using typically 2 brackets per end panel on 560 - 570mm deep base units at 500 to 600mm centres. Deeper units will require more brackets. |
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Bracket fixing
Fit the brackets to the base unit side panels only. Top rails are not strong
enough.
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b) Units with top panels
On units that have a full or partial top panel, fix the brackets directly under the panel, having first drilled 15mm minimum access holes through the top to line up with the cross grain slots in the brackets.
Use 35 - 38mm RHd screws to fix through the bracket and unit top into the
timber. Obviously use shorter screws on 27mm thick worktops.
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Note:
These top panels must be drilled or cut out over at least 50% of the area to allow the underside of the timber worktop to breath and stay in balance with the upper surface. |
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c) Above kitchen appliances
Where the tops span appliances alone, or are unsupported into the corner, cut and fix timber wall rails to support the tops and attach the slotted brackets.
Tops that span two appliances side-by-side must be supported:
- either by a mid panel fixed between them.
- or by a solid timber front rail at least 40mm high and fixed across the span. |
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d) Onto masonry features
Do not fix wooden tops directly into masonry. Fit them over timber spacers 6 - 10mm thick, which are themselves on a Damp Proof Membrane (DPM). This prevents the transmission of moisture and provides an airspace under the top. |
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Sealing corner joints
Make sure any end grain has been sealed before assembling the joints. (see page 2)
Apply a light bead of clear low modulus silicone sealer along one side of the joint, just below the top surfaces and edges.
Align the two sides with biscuits before clamping up firmly with worktop bolts. Wipe off the surplus sealer. |
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Fixing the worktops
For Belfast sinks, just before the worktops are to be put in place, run a bead of low modulus clear silicone along the outer half of the sink rim, at the sides and the rear, to form the primary seal to the worktop.
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| Move the tops into place. Use thin pieces of board as temporary packing to position them with 4 - 5mm expansion gaps between the edges and ends of the tops and the walls. |
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Pilot-drill at the centre of the cross grain slot:
- use Æ4 x 20mm RHd screws when fixing directly to the worktop
- use Æ4 x 35-38mm screws when fixing through brackets and units with tops. |
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Tighten the screws fully, then just loosen them by turning back a quarter turn. This stops the screws binding against the brackets and allows the wood to 'move'.
Cupped worktops
If a timber top is cupped, due to moisture differences on site between the opposite surfaces of the wood, it should be fixed down through the rear brackets first. Then gently and gradually, using clamps and battens, pull it down at the front before fixing it there with screws.
Allow time for the timber surfaces to equalise and flatten, otherwise the timber may split. |
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